Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
